You’ll escape the grey in Gran Canaria, but there’s much more to it than sun, sea and sand

Now that the days are getting shorter and the prospect of grey skies and cold weather ahead is doing little to lift flagging spirits, many will be hoping to shorten the winter by jetting off in search of some late-season sun. The Canary Islands are often the number one choice for Irish holidaymakers – but while many are content to “fly and flop”, and spend a week or two by the pool, there is so much more to this archipelago than simply sun, sea and sand.
So, when the opportunity arose to escape to Gran Canaria, I revelled in the thought of soaking up the sunshine, but was also really looking forward to heading into the hills and valleys to uncover some of the history, culture and scenery of the island. After some rest and relaxation at Playa de San Augustín and the Paradisus by Melia Hotel, an all-inclusive hotel with pools, restaurants, bars and activities including yoga, wine tastings, painting classes and star gazing, we booked an excursion to a coffee plantation and winery, an hour’s drive away from the hotel, with beautiful coastal views on one side and a stunning mountain-scape to the other. The route is also punctuated by what seemed like hundreds of wind turbines, almost as far as the eye can see, silently turning in unison, giving the whole vista an eerie, otherworldly feel.
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Leaving the motorway, we found ourselves inching slowly through small villages and navigating dusty narrow roads, before venturing into a lush, verdant valley to the location of Finca La Laja, a family-run plantation where everything from bananas, avocados, mangoes and oranges to coffee, grapes and honey are produced. With the sun high in the sky, we toured the estate, ate fruit straight off the trees, saw coffee plants in situ and learned how the beans are picked, dried and then roasted. Neatly avoiding a pair of dogs gently snoring under the shade of an almond tree, we had worked up something of a thirst, so responded positively when we were shepherded into the canopied terrace to sample some of the home-made produce.
Invited first to try some of the mineral water from the local well, which promised to cure all manner of ailments, we were then poured samples of three of the wines produced and bottled on the estate (40,000 bottles per year) – a white, a rose and a red. These were accompanied by some local cheese, breads and preserve, and rounded off with a cup of exceptional home-grown coffee and home-made lemon cake. It was a hearty pre-lunch snack, but it would have been rude not to try everything.
After a thoroughly enjoyable morning, we returned to our hotel and felt more than justified to retire to our sun loungers for the remainder of the afternoon and soak up some welcome rays. As dusk fell, we ventured out on to the boardwalk for an early evening walk to work up an appetite for dinner in Peseta, one of the many restaurants whose culinary delights are included in the hotel’s all-inclusive package.
The following morning, waking to the glorious sound of waves crashing on the beach, we headed to Playa de Mogan, the so-called Little Venice of the Canaries. Less than half an hour’s drive away, this town, widely thought to be the most picturesque on the island, is well worth a visit for its colourful buildings, quaint bridges and bougainvillea-covered archways.
No trip to Gran Canaria would be complete without a visit to the elegantly charming, capital city, Las Palmas. Opting to travel like a local and take a bus, at just €6, the hour-long trip was a fraction of a taxi ride (which costs between €70 and €90) and much more fun.
Our home for the next few nights was the fabulous Santa Catalina, which, built in 1890, is the oldest hotel in the Canary Islands and has played host to many famous names over the years (apparently we had missed the Real Madrid team by one day). The colonial-style building still retains most of its original features and furniture, and its grandeur and elegance created an ambience of bygone years, making us feel like we had stepped back in time.
With a selection of bars, restaurants, pools and spa, we were spoilt for choice without even stepping outside the door, but there was so much to do and not nearly enough time. So, over a pre-dinner cocktail on the stunning rooftop bar, followed by a delicious dinner in La Bodeguita 1890, we hatched a plan to explore as much of the locality as possible, while also making time to enjoy the on-site luxuries – and the next morning, tempting as it was to linger over breakfast on the hotel’s leafy terrace overlooking the turtle pond, we got ready for a hike in the rainforest.
Heading past the marina, along the coast and out of town, driving higher and higher up into the hills, we finally reached our destination, the last remaining laurel (bay tree) forest in the archipelago. A keen naturalist and bird watcher, our guide, Guillermo, was a fount of knowledge about every plant, bird, tree, cave and rock we encountered on our two-hour hike. The views were spectacular, the forest calming and the tranquillity soothing – it was the perfect antidote to our normal, hectic lives.
After an afternoon by the pool, the evening was spent meandering through the cobbled streets of the old town, stopping here and there for a tapa, a glass of vino and simply sitting in the balmy night air watching the world go by. The following morning, we headed off on another excursion, this time to discover some extraordinary historical sites. Our first stop was at an ancient silo built to keep food and valuables safe by the Amazigh tribe who hailed originally from North Africa. Carved into the cliff face, the enormous maze was an incredible feat of engineering. Given access to look inside the individual caves to imagine what life must have been like a thousand years ago – the effect was dizzying, not least because of the distance from our vantage point to the scorched earth below.
After a fascinating trip back in time, we headed to the El Maipés necropolis. Covering more than one-square kilometre, the almost black, barren landscape is accessed through a turnstile (after paying a nominal entrance fee) and is home to more than 700 burial mounds or tumuli, from the 8th to 10th century, some of which are more than 1,300 years old. A model in the visitor centre explains the history behind the site, which sits on an old lava flow from nearby volcanoes. There are many stories of grave robbing and other equally macabre tales that jar fiercely with the stunning blue skies and ambient temperature.
But despite the somewhat gruesome history behind the burial ground, it was a fascinating way to spend an afternoon, away from the hustle and bustle of the city. As part of our holiday, we also headed south, checking into the Royal Level Barcelo Margaritas, which, although located near the popular holiday resort, Playa del Inglés, is situated away from the main strip, nestled in manicured gardens and is adult only, so it had a sedate and restful ambience. Welcomed with a glass of chilled cava, there was very little required of us over the course of the next couple of days, apart from reading, lounging and venturing out in search of interesting restaurants for dinner – it was relaxing and slothful and we enjoyed every minute.
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Our last few days were spent soaking up the rays, indulging in some retail therapy and savouring the culinary and cultural delights of the island. At four-and-a-half hours away by plane, the combination of ancient history, old-world glamour, incredible food and lots of sunshine, makes it the perfect spot for a bit of winter warmth. I’m already looking forward to my return.